Skincare inspiration from US Patent No. 6,572,868–anti-wrinkle and smooth skin recipes


This patent provides a natural, organic, curative, skin restructuring skincare recipes that are effective at retexturing the skin, significantly improving smoothness, firmness and moisture content of the skin, regulating wrinkles, preventing aging, improving overall tone of the skin and decreasing free radical level in the skin. The restructuring composition include these eight ingredients: carrageenans (40% to 45%), borage oil (1% to 2%), squalane 1% to 3%), ceramide 3 (0.1% to 0.2%), ceramide 6 (0.1% to 0.2%), red algae extract (1.9% to 2.25%), dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (0.05% to 1%), oleuropein (0.01% to 0.5%) and EASHAVE™ (0.01% to 0.5%).

Carrageenan is the name given to a family of linear sulfated polysaccharides obtained from red seaweeds (Rhodophycae), including, Eucheuma cottonii, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Gigartina stellata, Gigartina acicularis and Gigartina pistillata Furcellaria fastigata, and Ahnfeltia concinna. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, on page 260. It is well known that the different types of carrageenan are predominantly developed by different seaweeds at different points in their respective life cycles. The carrageenans useful for the recipes include lambda, kappa and iota, and intermediate mu carrageenans. The purified carrageenans are available readily from numerous commercial sources in the salt form, for example, sodium, calcium, potassium, and the like and are typically colorless, tasteless, odorless, and will create a non-opaque gel in water. The commercial availability of individual carrageenans in a pure form enables the use of specific optimized ratios of the individual types so as to achieve the ultimate moisturizing effect of the final total system to be applied on the skin. The molecular weight of the carrageenans will normally be in the range of 5,000 to about 500,000, with most being in the range of about 100,000 to 500,000.

Borage seed oil is obtained from the seeds of borage plant (an herbaceous annual plant), also known as Borago officinalis L. (Boraginaceae) and contains: gamma-linoleic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, sterols, tocopherols, etc.  

Squalane is a nonocclusive moisturizer and is obtained from olive oil and is commercially available.

Ceramides are specific sphingolipids which exist in intercellular lipid lamellae of horny layers and play an essential role in structuring and maintaining the lipid-barrier function of the skin. Useful ceramides must be able to penetrate the stratum corneum in order to reach the lipid lamellae of the permeability barrier and must show a high capacity for improvement of the water-retaining capacity of the skin. Use mixtures of the ceramides N-octadecanoyl-phytosphingosine (Ceramide III; INCI name Ceramide 3) and N-(2-hydroxy-octadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (Ceramide VI; INCI name Ceramide 6) for the recipes. Pure human skin-identical ceramides III and VI which are of a non-animal origin are commercially available from Cosmoferm B.V., Delft, the Netherlands.

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is believed to be effective in preventing and/or treating skin ageing, in firming the skin and increasing collagen synthesis.

An anti-irritant ingredient, commercially available under the trademark EASHAVE™ from Centerchem, Inc. of Stamford, Conn, contains proteinase inhibitor. It is also believed that this product enhances regeneration of protective lipids. A red algae extract may be obtained from marine red algae such as Turnerella mertensiana, Schizymenia epiphytica, Turnerella pennyi, Chondrococcus hornemanni, Neodilsea americana, Neodilsea integra and Ahnfeltia concinna.   For example, a butylene glycol (and) Algae Extract (APT) product is commercially available under the trademark APT from Centerchem, Inc. of Stamford, Conn.

Oleuropein is a bitter glucoside found in olives and the roots, leaves and bark of the olive tree, Olea europaea and has been found to protect low density lipoproteins from oxidation (Life Sci 55(24): 1965-71, 1994).

Other ingredients may also be added into above recipes as needed.  The additional ingredients include:

(a) the aloe vera gel;

(b) aqueous or organic plant extracts, in particular ivy extract, horse chestnut extract, ginseng extract, butcher's broom extract, ginkgo biloba oily extract, horsetail glycolic extract, catchweed glycolic extract, lady's mantle glycolic extract, hawthorn extract, acacia extract, alfalfa extract, bayberry extract, calendula extract, birch extract, bitter orange extract, green tea extract, vine extract, and rosemary extract;

(c) oils: jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil, quinoa oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, carrot seed oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, walnut oil, peanut oil, olive oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, sesame oil, coconut oil, cotton seed oil, jojoba oil, bergamot oil; citrus oil; celery seed oil; nutmeg oil, origanum oil, anise oil, cardamom oil, caraway oil, cinnamon oil, clove oil, apricot kernel oil, lavender oil, orange flower oil, tea-tree oil, cocoa butter(theobroma oil), mango butter, shea (karite) butter;

(d) plant waxes, such as carnauba or candelilla;

(e) enzymes: lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, glucose oxidase; thiocyanate, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase and superphycodismutase;

(f) coenzymes: coenzyme Q, especially coenzyme Q10;

(g) flavonoids;

(h) carotenoids (Vitamin A);

(i) tocopherols (Vitamin E); and

(j) phytoshingosines and sphingolipids.

 
Thanks for reading.

Connie
connie@cherruby.com

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