Ceramide (N-acylsphingosine) is a
lipid metabolite, which is released inside a cell within a few hours of
stimulation with various agents. Ceramide fulfills an important role in the
moisturizing mechanism and barrier mechanism of skin. Ceramides are released by
sphingomyelin as a result of the enzymatic effect of sphingomyelinases.
The importance of ceramides in the skin metabolism and health is well
documented. The main cellular constituents of the epidermis are keratinocytes,
melanocytes, Langerhans cells, fibroblasts, endothelial cells and macrophages.
The intracellular space consists mainly of neutral lipids, glycoproteins,
protein degradation products, desmosomes, active enzymes, products of sebaceous
glands, and ceramides. As long as this brick and mortar structure is intact,
the skin is endowed with both a protective layer and a selectively permeable
filter.
During the differentiation process of the epidermis, which starts with cell
division in the basal layer and ends with the death of keratinocytes and the
development of the lipid barrier, the cells modify their lipid synthesis
capability. The result is that the basal layer of the epidermis is
characterized by phospholipids and cholesterol, whereas the outermost layer is
characterized by cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. The lipids of the
horny layer, the main component of which consists of sphingolipids, play a
crucial role in maintaining the permeability barrier of the epidermis to water.
The sphingolipids are exuded from the lamellar bodies of the granular cells of
the epidermis. Ceramides, which make up almost 50% of the horny layer of skin,
are the main polar lipids of the horny layer and play a fundamental role in the
barrier function of the skin against water leakage in cell adhesion and in the
differentiation of the epidermis, as mentioned above.
Like the appearance of the surface of the skin, its functional properties
also undergo changes with aging. Aging skin is characterized by a reduced water
content in the horny layer associated with reduced transdermal leakage of
water. It has been shown that ceramide concentration decreases with age, and
this decrease may be responsible for the dehydration of the skin which is
observed in the course of aging. In addition, abnormal ceramide levels
(deficiencies) have been detected in atopic eczema, dermatosis and dermatitis,
atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
In addition to age, other external factors can reduce the amount of
ceramides present in the skin and lead to skin irritation problems. For
example, the enzyme ceramidase can degrade ceramides to sphingosine and free
fatty acids upon contact with ceramides. Ceramidase is present in skin in
certain layers where it performs a beneficial conversion function. However,
when ceramidase is introduced onto skin from an external source such as
bacteria (bacterial ceramidases), the ceramidase can degrade ceramides as
mentioned above thereby reducing the intracellular concentration of ceramides
and leading to dry, cracked skin.
It has been discovered that certain
botanical extracts can be utilized maintain or increase the concentration of
ceramides in skin and thereby improve skin health. For example, Lavender, Marigold (Calendula), Spirulina,
Chamonile CL, Devil's Claw, Triticum vulgare wheat gluten, Sea Parsley, and American
Ginseng are shown to increase sphingomyelinase activity; and Triticum vulgare
wheat gluten, Comfrey leaves, and Hydrolyzed Soy Protein are shown to decreasing
ceramidase activity. Dragoderm,
Phytoplenolin, Aloe Ferox HS, and American Ginseng are highly preferred as they
all not only increase the activity of sphingomyelinase, but also decrease the
activity of ceramidase. Therefore, using
these botanical extracts can significantly improve the health of skin by
maintaining or increasing the level of ceramides in the skin.
Thanks for
reading.
Connie
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