Skincare inspiration from US Patent No. 8,377,486– skincare compositions containing an adenium obesum extract

Adenium obesum, also called “desert-rose”, is a plant belonging to the family of the Apocynaceae, with its origins in Yemen, and is cultivated as an ornamental tropical plant. Research has shown that an extract of Adenium obesum stimulates the expression of proteins of the desmosomes which are present at the intercellular junctions of the cells forming the epidermis and the horny layer, and allows stimulation of the expression of desmoglein, desmoglein 1, or desmoplakin, which are proteins constituting the desmosomal junctions of the epidermis, which are involved in inter-keratinocyte or inter-corneocyte cohesion. Stimulation of this kind makes it possible to increase the efficacy of these adherent junctions and thus to enhance the resistance to the stresses to which these cellular layers are subject, and limit the evaporation of intercellular water.

The extract of Adenium obesum, alone or in combination with other active agents playing a role in strengthening the cutaneous barrier, may also be combined with one or more active agents such as a glycol extract of amber, succinic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid, gentisic acid, tocopherol gentisate, ectoin and/or its hydroxy derivatives, mannitol, forskolin, urea, sarcosine, trimethylglycine, creatine, glutathione, UVA and/or UVB filters, free-radical scavengers such as tocopherol, resveratrol, its monomers or oligomers, astringinin, tocotrienol or an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis, substances which are calmatives, such as tocopherol phosphate, and substances which lighten the complexion and/or which regulate pigmentary skin disorders, such as Kushenol B, arbutin, kojic acid, calcium pantothenosulfonate, an extract of liquorice, an extract of lily or a derivative of ascorbic acid or of erythorbic acid.

Example recipe: Regenerating Moisturizing Serum Including an Extract of Adenium obesum

The formula is as follows (% expressed by dry weight relative to the weight of the composition):


	Adenium obesum extract	0.15%
	Ecdysterone	0.08%
	Hyaluronic acid	0.4%
	Tocopherol acetate	0.1%
	Glycolic acid	0.15%
	D-Xylose	0.05%
	Fragrances, preservatives	0.2%
	Gelled excipients and water	qs 100%

The regenerating moisturizing serum comprising the extract of Adenium obesum is to be applied and allowed to penetrate before make-up is applied.

Example recipe: High-protection Moisturizing Day Cream