Skincare inspiration from US Patent No. 8168211–anti-aging skincare using polyphenol-rich plant extract as antioxidant
Oxidative stress causes skin aging. Reactive
oxygen species (ROSs), which are responsible for oxidative stress, are
molecules formed during cellular metabolism and after exposure to physical
agents (such as UV radiation) or chemical agents (such as hydrogen peroxide).
Decreased skin hydration ability directly relates to signs of skin aging. It is known that disruption of water
homeostasis is a very early event in skin aging. It has been shown by M. Visser
and D. Gallagher in an article entitled “Age-related change in body water and
hydration in old age”, published in the work entitled “Hydration throughout
life”, M. J. Arnaud, published by John Libbey Eurotext, 1998, pages 117-125,
that, generally, the body loses a large amount of water at an early stage. It is also known that the expression of
aquaporin-3 (AQP-3) in skin cells decreases with age, suggesting that the
protein systems controlling the water flows are affected during aging (Dumas et
al., J. Drugs Dermatol., 2007, 6, 20-24, and Dumas et al., Int. J.
Cosmet. Sci., 2005, 27, 47-50).
By maintaining good hydration of the surface layers of the skin, epidermis
and horny layer, it would be possible to substantially improve the
effectiveness of antioxidant molecules, which reduces the oxidative processes
and therefore delays aging of the skin.
Polyphenol is a class of antioxidants that is rich in plants such as
rose. Rose extract has high content of
anthocyanins such as cyanidin and pelargonidin. For example, Meidebenne variety
rose, a class of rose with deep red colored petal, exhibits a very high content
of anthocyanins. Therefore, rose extract
tends to have high content of antioxidant polyphenol.
To obtain rose extract, either fresh or dried roses can be used. The solvent can include water, ethanol,
glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, and polypylene glycol. For example, you can make your own rose
extract by soaking roses in a mixture of ethanol and water. I have been making flower extraction at home
for many years now. It can be very easy—I
simply soak flowers (such as rose, sweet olive, jasmine, gardenia, honey
suckle, all from my yards) in Vodka, which contains 40% of ethanol. The vodka can be bought in any liquor or
supermarket.
The polyphenol rich flower extracts can be combined with a hydrating or
humectant agent to make a skincare product.
The following hydrating or humectant agent can be used:
·
a polyol such as glycerol and polyethylene
glycol;
·
a constituent molecule of the NMF (Naturl
Moisturizing Factor) having a high affinity for water including constituent
amino acids of filaggrin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, lactate, urea, sugars,
for example glucose, fructose and lactose, and trace elements;
·
an osmolyte such as betaine, taurine,
ornithine, lysine, inositol, trehalose, ectoine and hydroxyectoine;
·
an agent which activates aquaporin
biosynthesis such as those which activate aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), in particular an
Ajuga turkestanica extract, those which activate aquaporin-9 (AQP-9), in
particular a Malva sylvestris extract, alone or in combination with
heterosides extracted from Centella asiatica, or those which activate
another keratinocyte, melanocyte, fibroblast and adipocyte aquaporin, alone or
as mixtures;
·
hyaluronic acid, in particular high
molecular weight or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, or an agent which
activates the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid such as D-xylose, proteoglycans
and CD44 hyaluronate receptors such as from calcium salts, preferably calcium
gluconate;
·
an agent which activates the biosynthesis
of lipids such as a Luffa cylindrica or sunflower seed extract or an
agent which simulates the maturing and excretion of the lamellar bodies of the
keratinocytes, which make it possible to improve the watertightness of the skin
barrier;
·
an agent which activates the
differentiation of keratinocytes such as ecdysteroids, in particular
β-ecdysone, or a calcium derivative, such as calcium gluconate, or
pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, or a calcium salt;
·
an agent which activates the formation of
tight junctions such as an Ophiopogon japonicus extract or a low
molecular weight hyaluronic acid fraction;
·
an agent which activates the formation of
desmosomes and corneodesmosomes such as a Lavandula stoechas extract;
·
an agent which activates the formation of
profilaggrin and/or filaggrin and/or the natural degradation of these proteins
to give NMF such as a Voandzeia subterranea extract or a Salicornia
herbacea extract, optionally themselves advantageously combined with an
agent which activates matriptase, which promotes the formation of the NMF by
degradation of filaggrin, alone or as mixtures; or
·
an agent which activates the formation of
the horny envelope of the corneocytes such as β-ecdysone.
Rose Anti-aging
Skin Toner
Mix a rose extract in a water/glycerol (60/40) solution 5mL with glycerol
3mL. Feel free to add a few drops of
your favorite essential oil. Bring total
volume to 20mL.
Anti-aging Face Lotion
Mix the following ingredients into a lotion. The lotion is applied daily to the face.
|
Solution of Meidebenne extract
|
0.2%
|
|
|
Glycerol
|
3.0%
|
|
|
Ajuga turkestanica extract
|
0.02%
|
|
|
Malva sylvestris extract
|
0.2%
|
|
|
Centella asiatica heterosides
|
0.02%
|
|
|
Betaine
|
1.0%
|
|
|
Glycerol
|
3.0%
|
|
|
High and low molecular weight
hyaluronic acids
|
0.05%
|
|
|
Excipients
|
q.s. 100
|
|
Anti-aging Eye Cream
The following cosmetic active agents were mixed, as percentage by weight:
|
Solution of Meidebenne extract
|
1.0%
|
|
|
Ajuga turkestanica extract
|
0.1%
|
|
|
Malva sylvestris extract
|
0.5%
|
|
|
Centella asiatica heterosides
|
0.1%
|
|
|
Betaine
|
1.0%
|
|
|
Glycerol
|
5.0%
|
|
|
High and low molecular weight
hyaluronic acids
|
<0.001
|
|
|
Excipients and water
|
q.s. 100
|
Thanks for reading.
Connie
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