Skincare inspiration from US Patent No. 5,939,082: anti-aging recipes using Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and Vitamin A (retinol)
Skin is subject
to insults by many internal and environmental factors. Environmental factors include ultraviolet
radiation (e.g., from sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low
humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Internal factors include chronological aging
and other biochemical changes from within the skin. Whether internal or environmental,
these factors result in visible signs of skin aging and environmental damage,
such as wrinkling and other forms of roughness (including increased pore size,
flaking and skin lines), and other histological changes associated with skin
aging or damage. Internal and environmental
factors may result in the thinning and general degradation of the skin. For
example, as the skin naturally ages, there is a reduction in the cells and
blood vessels that supply the skin. There is also a flattening of the
dermal-epidermal junction which results in weaker mechanical resistance of this
junction.
In this patent, Proctor
and Gamble’s scientists showed that topical application of Vitamin B3 can regulate the signs of skin aging, including reducing the
visibility of the fine lines, wrinkles, and other forms of uneven or rough
surface texture associated with aged or photo-damaged skin. It has also been discovered that topical
compositions containing a vitamin B3 compound and a retinoid provide
benefits in regulating skin condition including regulating the skin aging with
decreased potential for retinoid dermatitis. In addition, the vitamin B3
compound in combination with certain retinoids synergistically regulates signs
of skin aging, especially wrinkles, lines, and pores. It is believed that the vitamin B3
compound increases the conversion of certain retinoids to trans-retinoic acid,
which is believed to be the biologically active form of the retinoid, to
provide synergistic regulation of skin condition (namely, increased conversion
for retinol, retinol esters, and retinal). In addition, the vitamin B3
compound mitigates redness, inflammation, dermatitis and the like which may
otherwise be associated with topical application of retinoid (often referred
to, and hereinafter alternatively referred to as "retinoid
dermatitis"). Furthermore, the
combined vitamin B3 compound and retinoid tend to increase the
amount and activity of thioredoxin, which tends to increase collagen expression
levels via the protein AP-1.
Here is an
example skin lotion formulation containing Vitamin B3 and retinyl palmitate
(components in weight percentage).
PHASE A: benzyl alcohol (0.30) and ethanol (3.00)
PHASE B: Water (60); disodium EDTA (0.50); glycerol (10.00);
hexylene glycol (2.00); niacinamide (2.00); triethanol amine (0.05)
PHASE C: retinol (10% in soybean oil) (1.50)
Blend the A phase components with a mixer. Blend the B phase components
into the A phase with a mixer. Separately, blend the C phase components until
they are uniform. Add the C phase mixture to the A/B phase mixture, mix until
uniform and emulsified, and then mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture.
Thanks for
reading.
Connie
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